It was forty years ago when I first set foot in the Qutb Shahi Tombs, accompanied by the enthusiastic members of the Birdwatchers Society of Andhra Pradesh, now known as Deccan Birders. Led by Pushp Kumar, IFS, the then Chief Conservator of Forests of Andhra Pradesh.
That passionate group of forest officers kindled a deep love for nature in us, particularly for the art of birdwatching. Back then, the landscape surrounding the Qutb Shahi Tombs and the foothill of Golconda resembled a wild jungle. The area was a tapestry of tall grasses, thick undergrowth, and trees with sprawling canopies. Shepherds roamed freely, tending to their goats, sheep, and cows amidst the tombs, which were open to all, unguarded by any restrictions.
Time and the elements had left their mark on the tombs. The relentless sun and rains had blackened many of the structures, streaking the domes with the remnants of rainwater, while moss and small plants clung to their surfaces. Unfortunately, some of the tombs bore the scars of vandalism—graffiti, names, acronyms, and even “I love you” etched into their walls.
I remember rainy season of 1982
It was 1982, and I vividly remember that it was the rainy season. The ground was a carpet of lush green, with the fertile, moist earth giving rise to abundant vegetation. As we strolled among the tombs, searching for birds, bees, butterflies, and blossoms, I stumbled upon a large, fully-grown white mushroom.
What caught my eye was how its umbrella-like cap resembled the dome of a tomb. To this day, I wonder if the dome-like structures we see around the world were inspired by nature’s original design. That day, Sunday, August 8, 1982, we recorded 25 bird species, meticulously documented by Aasheesh Pittie, a world-renowned ornithologist from Hyderabad. Aasheesh, the editor of “Indian Birds” and author of two monumental works, “Birds in Books” and “The Written Bird,” is considered an authority in the field of ornithology.
Over the years, numerous birdwatching expeditions have been conducted at the Qutb Shahi Tombs, and, unknown to many, a remarkable 82-bird species have been recorded in this area. Among the resident birds are the Drongo, Kites, Shikra, Grey Hornbills, Bee-eaters, Munias, Red-wattled Lapwings, Parakeets, Spotted Doves, Indian Robins, Sunbirds, and Barbets. The 171-year-old heritage site, representing the legacy of the Qutb Shahi rulers near Golconda Fort, is undoubtedly a source of pride for Telangana. The extensive renovation, which spanned over 14 years and was recently completed, has brought well-deserved recognition to the site’s rich arboreal heritage and wildlife.
Necropolis with evolving styles
As Sibghat Khan, an architect, and historian with Deccan Archives in Hyderabad, explains, “It is perhaps the only necropolis where one can witness the evolution of an architectural style during the reign of a dynasty, blending Indian and Iranian influences with elements of Vijayanagar-Hampi architecture.” He further elaborates that the tombs, in their prime, were lavishly adorned with carpets and beautiful chandeliers. Handwritten copies of the Quran were placed on pedestals, inviting visitors to recite chosen verses.
The Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC), which undertook meticulous conservation work on the monuments, has also focused on preserving the ecological heritage within the 100-acre complex. Asiya Khan, a passionate naturalist dedicated to the preservation of ancient trees, is associated with the project as a tree consultant. As part of the conservation efforts, Asiya and her husband, Azam Khan, conducted a survey to document the flora within the sprawling complex. Asiya proudly notes that the site is home to 3,300 trees representing 75 species, including Gulmohar, Amaltas, Champa, Rain tree, Ficus, and Pomegranate. Some of these trees, such as the Tamarind and Banyan, are massive and could easily be over 100 years old. Their ages will be scientifically determined in due course. Currently, most of the trees are tagged with their names written in three languages for accurate identification. Asiya concludes by highlighting that the expansive campus is an ideal habitat for birds, bees, butterflies, and indigenous flora.
Blocking sandalwood thieves
However, the tranquillity of the site was disrupted in the summer of 2016 when thieves cut down and stole ten mature sandalwood trees from the premises. To prevent such incidents, security has since been enhanced. Today, the Qutb Shahi Heritage Park stands as a prestigious example of conservation and landscape restoration, thanks to the efforts of the Aga Khan Trust in partnership with the Department of Heritage of the Government of Telangana. The restoration of each historical structure within the necropolis has been made possible with the generous support of the Tata Trusts, the US Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation, IndiGo Reach/InterGlobe Foundation, and the Consulate of the Federal Republic of Germany.
Summing up the overall ambiance of the Qutb Shahi Heritage Park, Ratish Nanda of the AKTC eloquently remarks, “We have endeavoured to create a comprehensive, integrated conservation that mirrors the original landscape and heritage atmosphere of the past.” The complex spans over 100 acres and contains over 100 monuments, including six large Baolis, ancient stepwells, capable of holding over 20 million litres of water. Some of the monuments tower nearly 150 feet, while the wells are 100 feet deep, presenting significant challenges during restoration. AKTC is also addressing climate change, water harvesting, environmental concerns, and the planting of 15,000 native trees to maintain an ambient atmosphere conducive to preserving the monuments. These efforts ensure that future generations will appreciate and reflect upon the charming cenotaphs, finding delight in both the archaeological and ecological zones.
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