In India, the gentle sound of jhumkas swaying with every step is more than just a fashion statement. These iconic bell-shaped earrings have adorned women for centuries as old as 300BC in Chola dynasty, appearing in temple sculptures, Mughal jewellery traditions and everyday wardrobes alike.
From bridal trousseaus to bustling street markets, jhumkas remain deeply woven into South Asian culture. Their intricate design reflects generations of artisans who have preserved and refined this timeless accessory through skilled craftsmanship.
Recently, however, this beloved piece of Indian jewellery unexpectedly found itself at the centre of a global fashion controversy.
The Paris Fashion Week Moment
Luxury fashion house Ralph Lauren sparked debate after its Fall 2026 presentation at Paris Fashion Week featured earrings that closely resembled traditional Indian jhumkas.
Models walked the runway wearing bell-shaped dangling earrings styled with Ralph Lauren’s signature tailored silhouettes. While the accessories complemented the brand’s classic aesthetic, many viewers quickly pointed out their striking similarity to jewellery that has been part of Indian heritage for centuries.
The controversy emerged from how the pieces were described. Instead of referencing their resemblance to jhumkas, the earrings were reportedly listed in the brand’s “Authentic Vintage” collection as “Tassel Drop Earrings.” There was no mention of Indian culture, artisans or South Asian craftsmanship. As images from the show circulated online, social media users began questioning why the cultural roots of the design were not acknowledged.
The Luxury Price Tag Debate
The discussion intensified when people noticed the price of the earrings.
Some of the tassel-style earrings from the collection have reportedly been priced around 695 USD (approximately Rs 63,000), while longer versions have reached 1,050 USD nearly Rs 96,000.
The comparison quickly went viral. Similar jhumka designs crafted by Indian artisans are widely available across jewellery markets in cities like Jaipur, Hyderabad and Delhi, often for a fraction of that price.
For many critics, the issue was not about inspiration. Fashion has always been borrowed from cultures across the world. The concern was about traditional craftsmanship being rebranded and sold at luxury prices without acknowledging its origins.
A Familiar Pattern in Global Fashion
This is not the first time global fashion houses have faced such criticism. Italian luxury label Prada previously drew backlash after presenting sandals resembling traditional Kolhapuri chappals. Similarly, French fashion house Dior faced scrutiny over designs featuring traditional Mukaish (Mukesh) embroidery from Lucknow without initially crediting the artisans.
Beyond Inspiration- The Question of Recognition
Fashion has always been shaped by cultural exchange, but critics argue that acknowledgement matters. For many Indians, the debate surrounding the Ralph Lauren earrings is not about who gets to wear jhumkas, but about recognising the artisans and heritage behind them.
As these tiny bells now echo across international runways, they also carry centuries of craftsmanship stories that deserve to be credited as much as they are celebrated.
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