Watching a tiger at close quarters-seated or walk majestically in the forests is a dream for most people. This dream came true for us in Ranthambore Tiger Reserve (RTR) on June 16.
“ Mera janam dhanya ho gaya” ( My life is blessed), burst out one of a group of elderly tourists from Madhya Pradesh in the 16-seater Canter vehicle as the young tiger walked past into the higher reaches of the jungle in full view of all of us.
For our family-me, Jayanthi and Krithika, on a rare holiday trip, it was a ‘Double Dhamaka’. We had spotted one of the popular big cats of Ranthambhore, ‘Ridhi’, happily relaxing near a waterhole during the morning safari. Our decision to ditch the popular Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri, Agra circuit for an adventurous trip to the Tiger Reserve, the hostile summer weather not withstanding proved a memorable one.
The expert help from N Shiva Kumar, my batchmate from Nizam College, Wildlife expert and ex-Corporate Communication guy from Indian Oil Corporation, made things not just easy but added the bonus of his lively presence and guidance in the jungles. He ensured that the zones with ‘high probability’ of spotting the big cat were selected. In the Ranthambhore National Park, spread over 1335 sq km, there are 10 zones or tour routes, demarcated for tourists. It’s about 20% of the forest area. Each Safari lasts for 3-3.5 hours.
The other famous landmarks in Sawai Madhopur (the station is an heritage structure too) are the imposing and impregnable Ranthambhore fort built in the 10th century, the old Ganesh Temple and the Padam Talao Lake. Incidentally, Rajiv Gandhi as the Prime Minister reportedly spent a working cum holiday stay during his tenure with family and select officials, giving a fillip to the Tiger Reserve, which was opened around 1980.
We hit the highway road
For us, the exciting trip began from New Delhi around 11 am on June 15 after a heavy breakfast in the Andhra Pradesh Bhavan. We drove through the green, central Delhi, saw most of the construction sites-New Parliament, PM Residence, along Kartavya Path, the imposing Rastrapati Bhavan as we drove out through the skyscraper ridden Gurugram and hit the Delhi-Mumbai Expressway. As claimed by the Union Transport & Shipping Minister, Nitin Gadkari the 8-lane highway is shaping up nicely. We zipped at 120 kmph and reached a highway restaurant after crossing Jaipur which served typical Rajasthani cuisine—-Dal, roti, paneer, zeera rice. After covering around 375 kms in 6 hours, we reached Sawai Madhopur, in which district falls the Ranthambhore tiger reserve and the fort.
We checked into the Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation hotel, which had an impressive suite for the family at a reasonable tariff. After, a quick stretch of the tired legs and arms, a quick walk around, we sat down to an early dinner. Shiva Kumar, who had done scores of trips, gave us an inkling of what to expect with his impressive collection of pictures of the big cat, leopards, deer and the birds on his laptop. We had a good appetite built to enjoy the meal and went to bed early.
On June 16, we were all ready, excited and rearing to go by 5.30 am with a cup of tea. The Safari vehicle was to pick us up by 6.30 am. Tourist have two-6 seated Open Gypsy and 16-20 seater, open top, Canter (gives the height to watch in the tour). So far, so good.
Painful wait for vehicle
Now, started the glitches, there was no sign of the vehicle even at 6.30 am. Phones were not responding. For the first timers like us, worry set in of losing precious time. Then the news came that the vehicle had trouble. The organisers were getting a new one. The agonising wait ended around 7.15 am. We pushed the driver and guide to play catch up.
After picking up all the tourists from different hotels, the vehicle reached the entrance of the RTR. To our great delight a Peacock greeted us. It welcomed with a spectacular display of its plume. Blocked the way and took its own sweet time to move on. The peahen crossed over with appreciative glances. Our eyes, of course were on the peacock. It was a Jungle mein Mor Naacha moment, which we fully savoured.
We were thrilled to the core, though the Tiger-time was diminishing. Into the jungle, dry and undulating terrain the Canter moved, the guide keeping our spirits and hope high of catching a glimpse of the big cat. Tiger tho dekhna hi tha. It was the one point agenda of almost all the people in the vehicle.
But, the guide briefed us that Ranthambhore is rich in bird life, deer, a few crocodiles etc. and the usual monkeys in plenty and dense forest with different fauna and flora. We saw most of them as the vehicle made us twist and turn along the route for over an hour. He tried to prepare us well to take in our stride if we fail to sight the tiger.
Big Cat near waterhole
As the drive took us deep inside, the expectations were rising and chances of spotting the big cat were diminishing. We hit an artificial Waterhole created for the animals and lo and behold there was a Tiger–it was resting. Half a dozen vehicles had closed in. It lay unperturbed. But for the occasional swish of its tail, the big cat was in her own world. Its name was Ridhi, said the guide. A good 30 minute wait got us a glimpse of it stretching its neck up a couple of times. We moved on, thanking our stars for the sighting.
Incidentally, Ridhi is considered by Tiger experts to belong to the lineage of the ‘Queen of Ranthambhore– ‘Machli’, the tigress. Machli, drew thousands of tourists from all over the world, earned crores for the Park, lived up to 18 years and delivered 11 offspring before it died in 2016.
Back in the hotel, our appetite had gone up with the tough ride and the spotting of the tiger. A good helping of aloo paratha, bread toast and welcome rest made us fresh for the afternoon safari.
This time, everything was smooth. The vehicle came on time. We had a mixed group of young and old occupying the seats in the Canter. The zone was different and expectations higher. We would be seeing more Talabs (lakes), dry forest and more uneven terrain along the Aravalli mountain ranges.
Nothing deterred us as we braved the heat and dust seeing large and happy groups of sambar deer, a baby crocodile, scores of peacocks and a couple of lakes as the vehicle moved on merrily. As we were slowly reconciling to a sweaty and bone racking tour of the reserve came hope in the form of a returning canter. The driver said something, which our guide picked up as a tiger in the vicinity. He asked us to maintain silence and look ahead.
Sighting another Big Cat
Soon, we reached a dense area with a water body flowing. There were a few jeeps and Canters already. Resting happily under the thickset of trees was a Tiger. It was a younger one. A few minutes after our arrival there, it got up and majestically walked across and into the higher reaches of the forests for its night halt. Being a nocturnal animal, the Tiger normally hunts for its prey during that time. The slow walk that lasted all of 2-3 minutes looked like a dream. It just passed through. We had an eyeful of the national animal in its habitat. A rare experience (though, in recent times, tourist spotting tigers has improved considerably), was fulfilled. We returned to the hotel, a contented family.
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