Intricate craftsmanship is not new to Hyderabad. The city has long been a hub of exceptional artistry, celebrated for its rich heritage in fabric design. From the delicate strokes of Kalamkari to the timeless elegance of karchob work, Hyderabad’s bridal fashion trends have always shown a blend of cultural depth and maximalism. Amid this never-ending love for traditionality, Hyderabad-based designer Bushra Ahmed is carving a niche for herself by marrying freehand painting with the intricate beauty of zardozi.
With her brand Nayab Luxe, Bushra is redefining modern Hyderabadi fashion while honoring its roots. “Since childhood, I have seen my mom wear hand-painted sarees, so it is not a new concept for me but embellishing those hand-painted designs with naqshi and dabka work is something very unique. I wanted to introduce this new trend to Hyderabadis and thus Nayab Luxe was born in August 2023, ” she explains.
An air of change
Nayab Luxe’s entry into the fashion world comes at a time when Hyderabad is witnessing a shift in fashion preferences. Bride or not, Pakistani fashion is taking center stage among Hyderabadi women and Bushra has tapped into this demand perfectly.
Taking inspiration from the popular Pakistani designer Maria Sajjad, Bushra’s designs are refreshing and elegant. “While the Khada Dupattas filled with zardozi work will remain ever-popular, I wanted to introduce something that balances tradition and modern aesthetic. I wanted to offer something different yet timeless for a Hyderabadi woman’s wardrobe,” she tells Siasat.com.
In Hyderabad, banarasi or tissue is the go-to fabric but Bushra is challenging this convention by offering the same intricate embroidery on pure silk organza fabric. This choice of fabric not only makes the design more minimalistic but also imparts a royal and refined elegance. Furthermore, by infusing artistic strokes with naqshi work, she brings a level of sophistication to her creations that sets them apart from the more heavily embellished traditional styles. “It does not hurt that in this era of fast fashion, Nayab Luxe’s dupattas and suits can be preserved for years owing to the purity of silk and the embroidery,” she adds.
The process and result
Bushra’s approach to creating her hand-painted masterpieces at Nayab Luxe is labor-intensive, with the first step being dyeing the base fabric. Next, she applies her expertise in freehand painting and this is where perfecting the color theory is important. “I need to make sure that the base color and the colors of the design complement each other, and luckily, my degree in Fashion Design helps me a lot here,” she says.
Using silk paints, she brings the carefully envisioned designs to life through delicate brush strokes. Inspired by nature and timeless motifs, her artwork reflects a mix of traditionality and modernity. Hand painting each dupatta can take up to 8 hours and each bridal sharara can take up to 2 days.
Once the painting is complete, the fabric is dried for 24 hours and then undergoes the embroidery process at her karkhana which currently houses 6 artisans from Kolkata. This stage involves layering naqshi and dabka work which is meticulously done to add depth and texture to the artwork.
The result is a collection that resonates with Hyderabadi women and beyond. Nayab Luxe’s hand-painted clothes have quickly become popular for key wedding occasions like manje, mehendi, nikkah, or simply as part of a bride’s trousseau. The clientele spans across North India, with a particularly high demand from Jammu, Delhi, and Noida, as well as international customers from the USA and Dubai.
The price range reflects the exclusivity of the designs- Bridal Shararas range from Rs. 30,000 to Rs. 46,000 while dupatta’s are priced between Rs. 2,500 to Rs. 18,000. “Some can argue that the prices are on the higher side but that can be credited to the use of 100% pure silk organza in my designs. The superior fabric ensures that each clothing items remains durable,” Bushra explains.
When asked about her bestsellers, she highlights one particular piece that has gained immense popularity: the Nikkah dupatta. It features Urdu duas in zardozi embroidery, adding a personal and spiritual touch to the bridal attire.
The Nikkah dupatta has truly captured the essence of what Bushra aims to achieve with her brand- creating pieces that are not only beautiful but also deeply meaningful. These thoughtful touches can be found in all of her designs, reflecting the growing demand for innovative fashion in Hyderabad and beyond. According to Bushra, Nayab Luxe aims to stand at the forefront catering to this demand..
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