In a consumer-driven society, where daily life is centred around shops, supermarkets, and instant experiences, the handloom industry faces significant challenges. With the omnipresence of advertising, marketing, and one-day delivery options, traditional crafts like handwoven kurtis, shawls, sarees, etc. struggle to compete with the fast-fashion industry, which prioritizes speed and convenience.
A 37-year-old Hyderabad-based handloom weaver who specializes in these handcrafted garments describes this generation as ‘ignorant of art’ for allowing it to fade in favour of convenience.
He likens fast fashion to a spreading disease within the industry, as he finds himself constantly trying to keep up with ever-changing trends.
He shares a personal anecdote: “A woman came into my shop looking for a Paithani saree. Initially, I was excited about the project, but when she insisted on having it in just three days. I explained that it would take at least five months due to the time required to complete it, working around the clock. She left, saying she could get it from Amazon with less than two-day delivery. Many customers lack the patience for handcrafted items. They demand quick results, which often compromise both quality and art.”
Psychology of consumerism
In an interview with Siasat.com, a 32-year-old counselling psychologist, Zainab, said that fast fashion is the byproduct of consumerism, which is not just a trend but a cultural activity. She further described it as the idea that increasing the consumption of goods purchased is always a desirable goal and that a person’s well-being and happiness depend fundamentally on obtaining consumer goods and material possessions.
Leach captures this phenomenon in his 1993 book “Land of Desire: Merchants, Power, and the Rise of a New American Culture,” writing: “The cardinal features of this culture were acquisition and consumption as the means of achieving happiness; the cult of the new; the democratization of desire; and money value as the predominant measure of all value in society.”
Zainab explains that consumerism is the result of evolving desires and social mimicry. She emphasizes that making a purchase is not merely an impulsive act but a complex journey influenced by various factors like psychological, social, cultural, personal, and economic.”
Initially, consumerism arises from basic biological needs, such as purchasing a bed for sleep or a home for protection from the elements. However, humans are not driven solely by necessity; we also possess a desire for novelty and distinction.
”This quest for new experiences and ways to stand out, often manifests in fashion. Fast fashion emerges as a response to this need for constant change. As social beings, we emulate trends set by celebrities and brands. In turn, individuals seek to distinguish themselves, leading to the creation of new trends, which are then adopted by others in a cycle of mimicry,” Zainab added.
She also describes it as the “bandwagon effect”, which is a psychological phenomenon in which people do something primarily because other people are doing it, regardless of their own beliefs.
How does it impact the Handloom industry?
A 59-year-old woman, Sujatha*, currently working as a housekeeper, reminisced about her time in the industry eight years ago. She said, “I loved painting on sarees, a skill passed down from my mother and grandmother. As a child, I was eager to continue this tradition. However, customers wanted their orders completed within one or two days, which was impossible given my other responsibilities. I initially tried to meet their demands, aiming to finish projects in three days. But they still wanted quicker turnaround times. When a shopping mall opened nearby, my neighbours began preferring those quick and convenient options.”
The decline in traditional craftsmanship has created significant obstacles for handloom workers in sourcing materials for their work. “It wasn’t just the customers who made things difficult; finding weaving materials was also a challenge. Without sufficient investment, I was putting money into a venture that wasn’t profitable. As the sarees gathered dust, I had to sell them at a reduced price, which barely covered my costs and left me with minimal profit,” she added.
Despite her efforts to sustain her business for another year, including approaching retail shops to sell in bulk with a six-month delivery timeline, she faced rejection. Financial constraints ultimately forced her to seek other employment.
In a similar scenario, a 47-year-old handloom weaver found himself adapting to the use of social media as a means to showcase and promote his artistry.”We don’t have funding from big companies to reach people across the state or even the city. My son introduced me to Instagram, so I created a website, started posting pictures, made reels, and added customer reviews. While this improved the response to my business, it’s still nowhere near the level of branded clothing lines.”
Can handloom textiles survive the ever-changing world?
According to the latest Fourth All India Handloom Census (2019–2020), there are currently 31.45 lakh households in India engaged in handloom activities, including weaving and related tasks. This number has grown over the years, from 22.68 lakh households in the first census to 25.45 lakh in the second and 27.83 lakh in the third.
The census also reveals that 6.83 lakh handloom worker households, or approximately 22.9 percent, specialize in weaving sarees.
West Bengal leads the saree production market, followed closely by Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and the North Eastern states, particularly Assam and Tripura, which are known for their silk sarees. Together, these five states account for over 78.6 percent of the handloom saree production in India.
A Bangalore-based handloom weaver, who has been in the industry for seven years, reflected on his journey. “In the first 40 days, I made a dozen sarees but only sold seven. Three of those were purchased by my mother for herself and relatives. I questioned my choices and wondered if I should have chosen a different profession, but my passion kept me from giving up,” he recalled.
Originally designed as a platform for sharing life’s moments and updates through visually engaging photos and videos, Instagram has now transformed into an essential platform for businesses seeking to reach a larger audience.
“To better understand the market, I took business and marketing classes. I soon realized the importance of social media, so I started an Instagram page, posted reels, and began accepting orders online across India, which significantly expanded my business. Despite facing challenges with shipments and occasional losses during transportation, I learned to manage these issues more effectively over time.”
“I also attended handloom expos in Hyderabad, Delhi, and other cities to gain exposure and paid a small amount to influencers to promote my business.”
In a world where technology is evolving rapidly, less privileged craftsmen face significant challenges. However, those who adapt to technological advancements are able to reap greater benefits and see increased returns in the long term.
Appealing to future weavers, he advises, “This industry requires a lot of resilience and patience. Though we use traditional techniques to weave, we also need to adapt technology and gain knowledge on how to use social media and marketing as a tool to further progress our business.”
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