Though Buddhist and Mughal heritage of Aurangabad lies in dire neglect it is still worth a visit

The city of Aurangabad in Maharashtra (recently renamed Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar) was initially the capital of the Asaf Jahi kingdom for nearly 40 years. It was in 1763 that the rulers decided to shift their capital to Hyderabad. So, like Hyderabad, this city in the Marathwada region too has had a hoary past and much intermingling of traditions and cultures.

The city and its environs have a diverse selection of stories to offer but little attempt has been made to highlight the old traditions. This region was among the last to be conquered by the Mughal regime. When Aurangzeb decided to stay back in Aurangabad, it acquired importance due to the presence of top-ranking officials of the Mughal administration. Later a tug-of-war between industrialisation and history ensued. Sadly Aurangabad failed to embrace a distinct identity and find a specific space in the midst of this turmoil.

Over the years, the treasure trove of history and culture has been neglected. The ancient Buddhist sites of Ajanta and Ellora draw many international visitors every year, especially from Japan, China, Vietnam, and Sri Lanka. The sites have been included in the list of World Heritage sites by UNESCO since 1983.

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Landmarks worth visiting

While some other cities and states such as Hyderabad, Delhi, and Rajasthan have made attempts to maintain their heritage sites, the Maharashtra government neglected them for not-so-unknown reasons. The burial place of Emperor Aurangzeb lies forlorn and unkempt. Very few visitors take the trouble to visit the site. But those who are familiar with history will nevertheless find it interesting.

There was even a cry from the rightwing protesters sometimes back to remove the grave of Aurangzeb from the city but it did not work out.

Other attractions include Devagiri Fort (also known as Daulatabad Fort where Abul Hasan Qutb Shah, the last king of the Qutb Shahi dynasty was kept imprisoned), along with the Panchakki, Bibi Ka Maqbara, Grishneshwar temple, and Salim Ali Lake. The latter is a good venue for bird watching and photography. But even local residents hardly visit these places. There is a lot of potential for attracting tourists but the prospect has been glaringly underutilized.

Brief history of Aurangabad

Aurangabad was founded around an older settlement of Khadki that was established by the Ethiopian leader Malik Ambar who was brought to India as a slave but eventually became the Prime Minister of the Ahmednagar sultanate. In 1636, Aurangzeb (then Viceroy of the Deccan) annexed the city and absorbed it into the Mughal Empire. Several years after the death of Aurangzeb, the Asaf Jahis took over the region.

During the Mughal period, it became the hub of trade and culture. The manufacture of embroidered silks emerged during this period. Paithani sarees are much favoured by women. Aurangabad also became an important centre of Persian and Urdu literature.

Culture is similar to Hyderabad

The cultures of Aurangabad and Hyderabad are very similar. Hyderabadi influence is reflected in the language and cuisine in Aurangabad. There are many nooks and corners where Hyderabadis will feel very much at home.

Along with Marathi, Urdu is widely spoken. The old city of Aurangabad was a completely walled city that had 52 gates. It was once known as the city of Gates. Remnants of these gates can still be seen in places. A dish known as Naan Qalia is a specialty of Aurangabad just like Hyderabadi biryani is to Hyderabad. It consists of Naan (a kind of roti) eaten with Qalia made traditionally of beef or mutton.

Story behind Naan Qalia

The story behind this dish is that when Mohammed Tughlaq shifted his capital from Delhi to Daulatabad, his huge army became exhausted on the march. To provide food to the army, the shahi bawarchis (royal cooks) dug a hot furnace and rolled out thousands of naans.

The qalia was prepared by slowly cooking either beef or mutton and adding a number of local spices to the cauldron. So it was also called ‘fauji ka khana’ (food of soldiers). It is commonly made in Aurangabad, specially during weddings and special occasions.

For residents of Hyderabad, this city is worth a visit. There is much in common such as food, language, and a blended culture. Hyderabad has direct connectivity by rail and air. The best time to visit is in winter or monsoons when the entire region wears a lush green appearance.

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