tradition

If haleem defines Ramzan in Hyderabad, dum-ke-roat heralds the arrival of Muharram. The moment the crescent indicating the month of mourning is sighted, bakeries across Hyderabad begin preparing one of the city's most cherished seasonal delicacies. Crunchy, sweet and shared by all, dum-ke-roat has become an inseparable part of Muharram in Hyderabad’s Old City and beyond. Like haleem, dum-ke-roat has no religion. Though it is closely associated with Muharram, the sweet baked delicacy has crossed all religious boundaries. In fact, all get united by dum-ke-roat. Hindus, Muslims, Christians and people from various communities eagerly await the season to relish its unique taste. Food lovers visit bakeries in large numbers, buying a few pieces for themselves and carrying parcels home for family and friends. As Muharram approaches, bakeries and restaurants witness a steady stream of customers asking for the seasonal favourite. The demand reaches its peak on the ninth and 10th of Muharram when hundreds queue up outside popular bakeries to purchase the delicacy. "It is impossible to stop at one piece," says Akram, a young customer. "The moment you finish one, you feel like having another." Simple yet complex For many Hyderabadis, dum-ke-roat evokes memories of childhood, family gatherings and Muharram evenings. The aroma of freshly baked roat emerging from traditional ovens is enough to draw customers from far and wide. The preparation of dum-ke-roat is both simple and complex. The ingredients include maida (flour), sooji (semolina), clarified butter, almond, cashew, raisins, saffron, cardamoms, sugar, honey, milk products and a pinch of salt. However, experienced bakers insist that the secret lies not merely in the ingredients but in their proportions and the baking process. "The exact recipe and method are closely guarded secrets," says a well-known baker with a smile. "Every bakery has its own style." The traditional baking technique gives the roat its characteristic texture — crunchy on the outside and soft and slightly crumbly inside. The flavour of cardamom and dry fruits adds to its appeal, making it an irresistible treat. Not very long ago, dum-ke-roat was largely a homemade preparation. Families prepared it in their kitchens and distributed it among relatives and neighbours. Over the years, changing lifestyles and growing demand have shifted production to commercial bakeries, many of which now prepare hundreds of kilograms during the Muharram season. "On an average, we sell several hundred kilograms during Muharram," says Syed Irfan of Subhan Bakery in Nampally. "The demand keeps increasing every year," he adds. US-Iran war impact on the treat Has the US-Iran conflict cast its shadow on dum-ke-roat? It definitely has. Rising crude oil prices and the consequent increase in petrol and diesel rates have pushed up transportation and production costs. Along with increase in the cost of dry fruits, ghee and other ingredients, this year’s Muharram delicacy has become more expensive than before. But some bakaries like Subhan have not raised the price as dum-ke-roat is largely a seasonal flavour. A kilogram of the delicacy now costs anywhere between Rs 500 to Rs 800 and above – depending on the quality and ingredients used. But despite the higher prices, Hyderabadis continue to queue up for their annual share of the crisp treat. If you want to shop at popular bakeries like Subhan Bakery, Pista House or Karachi Bakery, then be prepared to loosen your purse strings a little more. These well-known establishments command a premium owing to their brand value, quality ingredients and loyal customer base. Prices at these outlets are generally higher than those charged by neighbourhood bakeries. Long queues and brisk sales during Muharram testify to the enduring popularity of their signature dum-ke-roat. In fact, many hardly bother about the price since they wait for the season throughout the year. A tradition dating back to 1953 The tradition of offering roat is believed to date back to 1953 when the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, offered it at the Nazr-e-Mubarak Alam near Charminar for the well-being and safety of his grandson, Mukarram Jah Bahadur. The practice continues even today, with devotees offering roat at alams and distributing it among people. Yet, its popularity today extends far beyond its religious significance. Today, dum-ke-roat has become a culinary symbol of Hyderabad’s composite culture and shared tradition.

tradition

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